Sheldrakes, Heswall

We visited Sheldrakes a few days before Christmas, 2009. The weather wasn't kind to us - it snowed early in the morning and during our visit, but it gave a certain eerie feel to the wild views across the Welsh hills from the restaurant windows.
I have long wanted to visit Sheldrakes, as it used to be the Clubhouse for the Dee sailing club - when there was water in the river Dee!! Dad used to be a member and most of my weekends were spent crewing for him. I remember it well.
I had booked well in advance, but (perhaps due to the weather and its rather out of the way location) it was quite disappointingly empty and lacked atmosphere.
We were seated by the window and I savoured the magnificent view. A huge fire crackled in the hearth and the anticipation of the Christmas meal was high.
Our waitress was very attentive and we were soon plied with our (non alcoholic) drinks and a menu.
We both chose a starter of potato and rosemary soup with pancetta. It was everything I expect from a soup - smooth, creamy and properly seasoned. It was served with warm crusty bread and we couldn't fault it.
My friend had chosed Cheshire turkey with all the trimmings and I went for curried monkfish with butternut and pinenut risotto with watercress and parmesan velouté. This is where the meal started its descent into mediocrity.
My friend's vegetables were like bullets - she sent them back, but they still returned like bullets.
Meanwhile I was searching for the curry on the monkfish. I swear the chef must have thrown it on from the safety of the Welsh hills, for there was none to be found. Nor, I have to say, was there any sign of a watercress velouté. When this was pointed out to the waitress, she did offer to change my monkfish, but, having already made inroads into it, I declined, for it would have been unfair and greedy to accept a second portion that I knew I couldn't eat.
In order to redeem themselves, they offered us a dessert 'on the house'. There was nothing that took our fancy, so we accepted one platter of cheese and biscuits to share between us. Four wedges of different cheeses appeared, with a disappointing cracker selection. One of the cheeses purported to be 'Mrs Kirkham's Smoked Lancashire cheese'. It certainly wasn't smoked - neither, I think, was it of the Lancashire variety. It was served with 'chef's own' chutney of the lip-smackingly vinegary kind.
By this time, we'd lost the will to complain, especially about a platter that was 'on the house', though, had I been paying for it, I would certainly have made my views known.
So, would we return?

Probably, on a wonderful sunny summer's day, when we could sit out and take full advantage if this restaurant's perfect location. I would give one chance for Sheldrakes to redeem its reputation, but, for a pricey menu, it would have to be utterly perfect next time.

Somehow, I don't think it will be.

A miserly 5/10 for their Christmas meal effort.